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Text File | 1995-11-30 | 69KB | 1,219 lines

Carding ANNOUNCEMENTS: MY BOARD IS -FINALLY- BACK UP! SO CALL!! SHADOWS OF IGA 707-528-7238! New name and number, but still awesome quality! Now I have a 150 Megs Hard- Drive, and a USRobotics 19.2k modem, so ALL baud rates are now accepted!! I still am only Hack/Phreak/Anarchy, so all those megs are for text files only! The board is not in any group as of yet... and no definant plans are in the works... One guy called up my answering machine and said "Gee, looks like you can do some good ASCII art, it's too bad you can't format the files...", well, since he was so kind as to not mention who he was or what type of computer he was using I must assume one of three things, that either: he is running on a C64 and in 40 (yes, these are formatted in 80), his file reader does not accept line feeds, or he forgot to say [L]inefeeds when he logged onto the board. INTRODUCTION: There are many aspects to carding, only a few of which will be discussed in this file. There might be some more files on this subject by me if there's positive feedback about it. Most of these are found out by experience, but some stuff I've just heard about, but never tried. Enough with this, on with the file... THE BASICS: Make sure you PLAN AHEAD! If you are familiar with everything, you won't run AS MUCH of a risk. Find a good drop house (discussed later in file) and get a good card! The best companies to order things from are the ones in the back of computer magazines, or almost any small business, because they don't have the knowhow/ability/equiptment to usually realize what's happening. As in the case of the Sharper Image Co., their computer system is down alot of the time, and their employes will tell you with a little proding. If that is the case, ABUSE THEM! They only check to see if there is enough credit on the card. One thing to remember, NEVER HANG UP ONE QUESTION! Just say something like, I'm not sure, it's my wife's credit card or try to wing it. But hanging up is instant death to the card. PLACES TO AVOID: Computer companies are the hardest to card from, because of one reason... Johnny Rodent (you know, the guy with the Vic-20 and 50 Baud modem) gets a card and decides he want to get something, and what is that something you ask? Well, computer equiptment of course! So the companies have protected them- selves. Martial Arts/Weopontry places are also hard to card from... I've gotten hell from some of those places trying to get stuff! Electronics places always tend to be hard to card from, for the same reason as the computer companies. They've been burnt too much. BYPASSING TRICKY QUESTIONS: One of the more tricky questions you might get from a pushy operator is a request for a drivers license. Now that's just great if you stole some guys wallet, but most of the time you just get the number, not even the actual card. My favorite answer is to say I was arrested for drunk driving and my license was revoked, they almost always by that. Sometimes they also want a work phone number, the best thing to say is that you are either unemployed, or work at home. And a good voice phone number is one like for a law offices facsimilie Machine, and tell'em you use your Fax every once in a while. If you've attempted to card something from a company, had it go bad, and then tried again, only to find out that they saved the address and won't ship it, a good method around that is to give ANYONE's address (even your schools) and then call UPS and tell them to forward all packages for John Doe to your drop house. If the UPS guy requires a signature, then just leave a note on the door saying something like you work a swing shift and can't always be home, but you take full responsibility and for them just to leave it in the back. FINDING THE PERFECT HOUSE: The prime house is one which is vacant. A good way to find one is to either drive around looking for one, call up reality offices and ask for one, or go to condo's and find one that doesn't look lived in. Once you have located a suitable spot, watch it and the neighborhood for about 1 week or more, watch the traffic most of all and the activity of the residents. Now the hard parts done! PICKING UP THE ITEMS: Do not let the packages stay at the house more than 2 days! If the UPS guy comes back with more, he will notice something is wrong and take ALL the packages. The bast way to get it is to go around during the day for about an hour and watch the activity, if everything looks fine then wait til dusk and go pick it up. If something is wrong, like people are watching you REALLY closely, and no kids are playing in the area, then don't ever go back to the house. Better safe then sorry! CHECKING CARDS: All credit card verification numbers deduct the money from the credit. Then they wait for a letter from the merchant to say what they bought. When that letter doesn't arrive, they assume one of two things, either the store messed up, or the merchant ID has been hacked. But they only think the previous if there are ALOT of cancelations like that. Here are some valid verification numbers, but no codes, so hackaway... VISA/MASTERCARD - 1800-554-1111 BANK NUMBER - xxxx MERCHANT ID - xxxxxxxxxxx VISA/MASTERCARD - 1800-554-2265 CARD TYPE - 10/MC 20/VISA BANK ID - xxxx Here's one 1067 MERCHANT ID - xx 52 AMERICAN EXPRESS - 1800-528-2121 MERCHANT ID - xxxxxxxxxx DISCOVER CARD - 1800-233-5656 MERCHANT ID - xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx THE CREDIT CARD: Of all the cards, Discover is the big loser, and if you get a company that accepts it, then USE IT! It will almost always work! VISA's are my personal favorites, although MC's are a fairly close second. Credit Cards from Over- seas are also REAL good and you will get everything you order with those. The best country for cards is Australia by far... Alot of carders there. Here is the basic setup of most of the cards... NAME LENGTH EX. DATE VISA 4xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx/xx or 4xxx xxx xxx xxx xx/xx MC 5xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx/xx AMEX 3xxxx xxxx xxxxxx xx/xx DISCOVER 6xxx xxxx xxxx xxxx xx/xx Most of the time the Experation date is pretty worthless and is only used to make sure you don't use the card past the date they set. You can get away with saying anything, but it's always better to try to get the correct one. Names are also as if'y as experation dates... It's always best to use the real name. FUCK-A-CARD: If you just want to fuck up a card, and it's a Discover, call up the Discover Card validation number and ask for a "Code-10" authorization (wow, just like James Bond!). Then just tell'em something like you are suspicious that it's a stolen card. -------------------- AMERICAN EXPRESS NOTES: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ CARDS THAT START WITH: ARE VALID ONLY IN: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 3764-2 and 3764-3 Brazil 3707 Mexico 3770-00 thru 09 Venezuela and the Netherland Antilles 3770-20 thru 24 Venezuela and the Netherland Antilles Cards starting with: 3770-10 thru 3770-19 and 3770-25 are from Venezuela but can be used anywhere in the world. DISCOVER CARD NOTES: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Authorization Telephone Number: 1800-233-5656 1. Card Number 2. Merchant Number 3. Amount of Purchase 4. Experation Date Discover Merchant Service Dept: 1800-322-4566 A DIFFERENT APPROACH: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I'm sure at least once in life you've been watching one of those stupid Television Shopping clubs and have seen something that you would like. Well, with this company: 1800-284-3100 You can sit and hack out peoples Membership Number, much like you hack out voice system codes. In my next carding file, I'll include a new number game concerning this company. The accounts are 9 digits long, and seem to all be around or under 180000000. The company keeps the persons name, address, phone number, cc, etc all in their records, but the operators are somewhat stupid and can most of the time be easily bullshitted into telling you all the info you need to know. One stupidshit actually told me all of the persons card numbers! WHATS THE BEST: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Shit, I couldn't begin to count the amount of times I've been asked "Which card is best to use?". As far as I'm concerned, it's basicly personal preference, although some cards have distinct advantages over others. Visas and MC's are accepted by vertually EVERYONE, and are pretty easy to come by. Discover cards, on the other hand, and hard for the companies to check, therefor good for you. AmEx has the wonderful floating limit, so if you John B. Spenders card, you can have hella fun. I use Visas most of the time, and then MC, Discover, and A card you know the most about will always be the best to use. MORE VERIFICATION NUMBERS: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ As if there isn't already enough verification numbers floating around in the Hack/Phreak community, here are a few more... Remember, these DO deduct the amount of money off of the card, and you should enter at lease $25 for a Visa (which is the average floor limit) or $50 for any of the others. A smaller amount will only draw more attention to your use of their account and either help in busting you, killing your cards, or killing your account. VISA/MC 1800-544-1111 Merch# : xxxx MerchID : xxxxxxxxxx AmEx 1800-528-2121 MerchID : xxxxxxxxx Discover 1800-525-9040 MerchID : xxxxxxxxxx Choice 1800-638-1592 MerchID : xxxxxxxxxxxx STICKY SITUATIONS: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ You may have been foiled once or twice by a company that checks the number by calling 555-1212 and seeing if it's registered to the cardholders name, well, the only way around this is to give them a unlisted number, or, by using CBI and a handy-dandy phone book, pull up a persons CC. This is only in the case that they check the registration, and not that they call up the place to check. If you really want to ensure everything goes ok, you can autodial the person for 4 or 5 days, until the company ships the package off, thus ensureing that the company doesn't get through, and if they do, chances are the people won't answer! If the company wants to call you back, keep a list of nearby payphone numbers that they can call that you can wait at, usually you can ask a company that if they are going to call you back, could they please call you back right now, because otherwise it's hard for them to get in touch with you. Another option available to the callback problem (when there is no l available, or they don't say when they're gonna call back) is to have a number call forward to your house. Or to be even more safe, have a number call forward to a number that call forwards to your house. Or if you are using a loop, and the person lives in your areacode/city, have THEIR number forward to the loop, and call UPS and have them forward the packages from THEIR house to your drophouse!!! This is an Exceptionally good method. The amount of rerouting really makes it a hastle for the feds/cops to track you down. One note on UPS forwarding, they will forward only 1 shipment, so if you are shipping hella stuff to the house, make sure to space them about 1 week and everytime you pick up a package, call UPS and forward again. If you're into weapons (like me) and want some good places to get them from, check out the file "Where to get Weopons", written by me, and available on Ripco and my board for sure. One interesting twist it to call up the police station, get an officers name & badge number (they are required to give them to anyone who asks) and then use the phonebook and CBI to pull up their stats. Once you get them, you can buy all that cool equiptment that says "Sold only to Law Enforcement Personell." Also, alot of the Rifles available can be bought with credit cards with little or no effort on your part. They don't check your background record (such as criminal) very ofte about that. If you decide to go for a Rifle, I would highly recommend the AR-7 Survival Rifle (around $100), AK-47 Assualt Rifle (around $400), and the Awesome USAS-12 Auto-Shotgun (around $800)!!! Here's just a few of the stats on the USAS (taken from Special Weapons and Tactics): U.S.A.S.-12 Universal Sporting Automatic Shotgun o Gas Operated o Available Semi or Full Auto o Pistol Grip o Rapid Firing-360 rounds per minute o Cylinder Bore Choke o Quick Reload option o Reduced Felt Recoil o Multi-Projectile Capability o Select fire Option o Single Round Lethality Gauge- 12 Finish- Parkerized Barrel- 18 1/4" Choke- Cylinder Bore Length- 38" Shell Size- 2 3/4" Weight- 12 Pound Magazine Cap- 10 round Box 20 round Drum The gun vaguely resembles a M16-2a, but is about 1 1/2 the size. It got great reviews from the Magazine, and I've shot it a few times and loved it. It's currently being used by law enforcement in L.A. and Miami. Also another good item to get is from Radio Shack (yes, they can make a few good things other than 'cheap' parts), and is the 20 Channel Programmable Scanner. Usually they will print out an updated list of all of the freq. in your area (including local cops, security companies, etc...). CBI & AFFILIATES: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ CBI is vaguely like TRW, with the same type of credit services, except some companies have CBI cut off the last 2 to 4 digits of the card (2 AmEx, 4 Visa and MC), but not ALL companies by far. Bank of America, and Citibank both are missing the last few digits, and a few others do the same, but for the most part, all the number is there, and the last 2 or 4 usually can be gained by calling the person up and acting 4 digits of their card. Now to use CBI, you must have the following info: NAME ADDRESS MIDDLE INITIAL (if any) CITY STATE ZIP CODE Which is entered in this format: nm-LAST NAME,FIRST NAME,MIDDLE INITIAL. [RETURN] ca-STREET NUMBER,1ST 3 LETTERS OF STREET NAME,###,CITY,ST,ZIP. [CTRL] S / Boulevard BLD Street ST Avenue AV Lane LN Court CT Circle CIR Park Way PY Here's an Example: PERSONS STATS ENTER LIKE THIS TO CBI Ronald McReagan nm-mcreagan,ronald. [RETURN] 123 Whitehouse Circle ca-123,whi,cir,washington dc,va,12110. [CTRL] S Washington DC, VA 12110 Now, if you have his social security number, then enter: dtec-SOCIAL SECURITY NUMBER. [CTRL] S And you will get the persons Name, Address, and Age (even in the correct format to be reentered). If you make a mistake at any time while you're typing, just continue on like nothing was entered wrong and then once it says nonexistant person, reenter it. Now every time you connect to CBI and logon, it will reply XXXX-proceed, if the XXXX is D2D2, then don't call back that day, but it's fine to call back the next day. Try to limit each call to about 5-10 minutes, and call during business hours of the port you're on, this will ensure the long life of the account and your prosperity! The codes are in this format: ###XX###-XX,visa,X,,#. ,.visa- are all constants, the # represent numbers, and the X represents a letter. When connecting to CBI, connect at 1200 and at 1/2 duplex, once connected, hit [CTRL] S and [RETURN] three times, then enter the code, and hit [CTRL] S when done. CBI recognises ONLY lowercase letters, so no capitals! PEOPLE VIA CBI: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ It is also very easy to find new cards, etc by using the DTEC feature of CBI and just typing in Social Security Numbers. After about 10 or so attempts you usually will find 1 or 2 people, not bad considering you have ALL the persons stats! AN INTERESTING NOTE: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ One interesting note relating to CBI, ask some of your friends for their Social Security number. Tell them that you will do a magic trick with it or something stupid like that. Then, pull up their CBI records, and Wala! You now have a fake Identity, Name, Age, Birthdate, etc... I always keep 10-12 on hand in case of an emergency! Also, CBI does not always give you the persons age, most of the time it doesn't! And if you search out cards by using DTEC and guessing the number, it's also possible to get 2 to 3 people all on the same Social Security #! ES is also a Variable that is only listed when CBI feels it would be relavent to a person being denied/given credit. DTEC RESPONSE: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Here is what you would see if you entered DTEC xxx-xx-xxxx: M1 OF 1 NM-REAGAN,RONALD,S CA-1234,WASHINGTON,CIR,WASHINGTON DC,VA,12110 1/89,FA-1234,101,HY,SMITHVILLE,CA,95668,10/82 ES-PRESIDENT,USA SS-xxx-xx-xxxx AGE 81& END OF REPORT CBI AND AFFILIATES - 01/01/89 Ok, FA means the First Address, and CA means Current Address. ES means what his/her occupation is, SS is his Social Security number, and the date that follows the addresses refers to the last date he was reported at that location. One note on the ES response; it is not always on the record, so don't assume that the person is unemployed. NM AND CA RESPONSE: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ * 009 CBI CRC #### LLLLLLLL AVE STE 120 CCCCCCCCCC VA 12110(xxx)xxx-xxxx *REAGAN,RONALD,S SINCE 1/07/89 FAD 09/29/88 FN-xxx 1234,WASHINGTON,CIR,WASHINGTON DC,VA,12110, DAT RPTD 1/89 1234,101,HY,SMITHVILLE,CA,95668,DAT RPTD 10/82 AGE-81,SSS-xxx-xx-xxxx 01 ES-PRESIDENT,USA,VA,EMP 07/80,VER 01/89 *SUM-08/88-10/88,PR/OI-NO,FB-NO, ACCTS:2,HC$0, 2-T *INQS-CITICORPMD xxxxxxxxx 09/29/88 MERVYNS xxxxxxxx 10/07/87 * FIRM/ID CODE RPTD OPND H/C TRM BAL P/D CS MR ECOA ACCOUNT NUMBER SEARS xxxxxxxx 10/88 08/88 0 0 R1 02 I xxxx-xxxxxxxxxxxxx CITICORPMCxxxxxxxx 10/88 08/88 12k 0 R7 06 I xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx & END OF REPORT CBI AND AFFILIATES - 01/01/89 In the above, most are the same as the DTEC, except, PR/OI means Prior Convictions, EMP means the length he has been employed, ACCTS meand the number of accounts (like if he had a Visa, MC, and Sears, he would have 3 ACCTS). INQS stands for Inquires, and is followed by the name, ID code, and date the file was researched. At the top, the line I slaughtered is the Address of his local CBI building, followed by their phone number (call to get an INTERESTING recording). RPTD stands for Last Reported User, and OPND is when the account was opened. H/C somethimes stands for the highest amount that can be charged, and the BAL stands for the current Balance. The 12k is $12,000 limit, and the CITICORPMC just means CitiCorp Bank and MasterCard (wow, so hard to figue out). ECON refers to who can use the card, I for Individual, J for Joint (Which usually means the person is married), and A for Authorized. As for the rest, you're on your own. One thing to also keep in mind, just because it's says CitibankVS, doesn't mean it's a Citibank Visa Card, it could also be a Card that Citibank has put a waver on. SUPPLY & DEMAND, THE MONEY METHOD ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Although I personally have never played too much with this, I have known quite a few Phreaks whom this has paid off for. This method involves you calling up something, like Western Union, and telling them you're the card- holder. Then, ship money off to another identity you have, to another Western Union office. They do require identification, but I researched and found out two interesting facts: o A college Picture-ID will suffice (which can easily be gained during an enrollment rush). o You can also send money and tell them to ask you a certain question that only you would know (such as the card holders mothers maiden name (one of their favorites)) and then they don't require any ID. About as much as you can get safely in one shot is $500, but thing if you live in a big city, you might have 4 or 5 Western Union locations, which means $500 from each location, for a total of $2000-2500. The amount will rise supprisingly fast. Try this no more then 2 weeks straight and then don't touch it for about 3 or 4 months (the longer the better). DEAD MAN'S DROP: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Now this method is about as good as it gets, and if you can't card and get something via this method, then give up, because you suck. First, flip open the local newspaper, and go straight to the obituaries (and you thought the title of this section was just a play on words!). Then via 555-1212 find out his phone number and address (or at least the number and then use a CN/A). Then connect with CBI and pull up his records. Now it takes Visa The power and gas company, about 1 month to shut down all of his services, so for that month you can card stuff using his card to his address and then pick it up from there. Keep in mind that he might have a wife, and a good indicator is a Joint account. MC BANK IDENTIFIERS: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ On Mastercards, I'm sure you've all been asked for the four digit number that appears on the top above the card number on the real card, and did the worst thing possible, brain lock-hang up. Here are a few of the more common identifiers that are around. One note: Identifiers almost always start with either a 1 or a 6. And if you find any more, leave them to me in mail on any System I call regularly. CARD BANK -----+---------------------------- 1263 - Chemical Bank 1033 - Manufactures Hannover Trust 1035 - Citibank 6017 - MBNA 1665 - Chase Manhattan DEATH VIA SELF-INCRIMINATION: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ One of the FBI, etc... Favorite ways of nailing your ass to the wall in self incrimination. And we as Phreaks are almost always able to be drawn into their trap. Thing I am always very careful of are people who you mention something to and they know what something is in conjuction with, but not how to aquire or use it. Also, I personally NEVER -sell- information!! By selling it, you have just shoved a Dilldo with FBI written on it up your ass. They love to thrash people who sell. Trading... Thats a different story. Always be careful of someone who says they have Mob affiliation, for one simple reason, Feds have somehow gotten it into their minds that phreaking and every- thing that falls under that broad title is somehow affiliated wit So when they say "Ya, I've got a great deal going on with the Mafia here in Alabama", be wary. I also do not often associate with the Mob/Mafia. Don't fuck with them, and they won't fuck with you. One GPhile I HIGHLY recommend is written I believe by someone involved in Phrack and concerns interrogation. It is on Ripco and is a Must for anyone who is involved in illegal actions. Never narc on a fellow phreak! No one hates a Narc more then the Phreak community, and believe me, they have been known to fuck people up majorly due to a speach impedament. When the cops say they'll give you a lighter sentence or tell you if you confess, you'll walk, Tell them to fuck off. Cops don't have the athority to do anything like that. And very rarely will then even look twice if you name names. Freelance Narcs are fairly common, and they are the perverbial 'Mercenary' of the hack/phreak world. They are just every day people who sell info to big businesses that are getting harrassed. And believe me, they can say/do anything they want to get your info. These dudes are a Phreaks Nightmare. If by some strange/demented/suicidal flaw in your character you decide to start selling info, always be careful of how you get the money. I've known of quite a few people who recieved more than money at Western Union offices. THE PHONE RUN-AROUND: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ One method with very good results from US Robotics is this one. What you do is get a card with a totally off-the-wall bank on any area code (although it is best if it's in your area). Then call up the company and order something, now, if they ask for the banks number, you are in business. Tell them the hi end of the loop and have a friend on the low end who will say "John Doe Bank, may I help you?", make sure your friend has all of the cards info so he can answer questions correctly. Then most of the time, the company will ship the shit off, thinking everythings cool! TRADING THE BAD FOR THE GOOD: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ One extreamly nasty thing to do, is to card something someone you know has, and then ask them to bring theirs over. When they leave the room, swap the carded on with the legitimate one and wala, if you get busted, the serial numbers on it and the carded item won't match and you can make up any old story about how you aquired it. RESOURCE MATERIAL: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Here's a few good books to pick up at your local library, if someone hasn't already 5-fingured 'em. 1. You Can find Anyone - Eugene Ferraro 2. Finder's Fee - Ralph D. Thomas 3. How to find Missing Persons - Ronald George Eriksen II 4. The Computer and the Law - Unknown 5. The Laws and Legislation of Credit Card Fraud - Unknown (same as above) 6. Privacy Laws in the Computer Age - Unknown (same as above) Books 4-5 are VERY good resource material for the laws of the US, and laws that apply to only your state. Books 1-3 give you a good working idea of how to re-find a persons credit stat NUMBERS GAME: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Want to play a game? Try this, I'll list a bunch of number, and you try to find the pattern to the numbers, it may take a while, and a few steps, but bare with it, the reward could be limitless! SERIES 1 (EASY) SERIES 2 (HARD) 6011000000001184 372816039941009 1275 084284008 00020283 108942003 0507 150981008 0804 158941004 1059 158941012 1083 181941005 1489 196982002 2040 223281014 3063 235913000 4392 269941000 4772 275901006 5175 290981009 8062 291281003 8138 379365009 00030126 403301004 1942 412271008 2288 424361003 2577 429171019 3583 436061005 4078 439311001 4185 442081005 5695 443951008 00501654 446361007 3551 455311000 5937 458723003 6331 469071004 6398 472131001 6893 477963002 00510234 486771032 0457 499171006 0655 504161000 1075 512841007 01001548 512842005 01500127 517731005 0275 531391000 2008 535711005 3857 536741001 3956 544911000 7320 546742007 7403 554301001 9474 565761003 02501371 569301004 4771 575911002 5091 584941008 5265 587261008 6156 595951004 6735 598162013 7428 600591001 7493 602071002 9291 627574006 9994 628421009 03501496 629051003 1645 630381001 1297 640162003 4390 650771008 6221 652081000 7286 677971003 9340 687931005 9951 720784007 04001602 730441002 Now some clues to this game are obvious, like in the second row, the third to the last zero is always 0, and in the first row, in the 9th-12th digit part, if it's the start of a thousand, it is either a X002 or 3, and it always jumps in intervals of 50's, except for X050, which sometime will be followed by a 1 (ex: X051). GIMMIE A B FOR BANK: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Here's a list of Issueing banks via the first 4 digits on Visas and MC's. Visas are on the Left, Mastercards on the Right. VISA MASTERCARD CARD BANK CARD BANK -----+--------------------------+--------------------- 4024 - Bank of America 5282 - Wells Fargo 4128 - Citicorp 5424 - Citibank 4302 - HHBC 5432 - Bank of New York 4310 - Imperial Savings 5410 - Wells Fargo 4317 - California Federal THE SCANNER METHOD: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I have found it very prosperous to go to Radio Shack and purchase a Scanner. If you ask, they will usually supply you with a list of all the frequencies used by cops, rent-a-cops, airports, fire depts, etc... Now, go to the High- way partrols frequency and listen for when they call in a persons drivers license, license plate, and name. Write these down and then flip over to the outgoing channel, and listen. Copy down his name, address, etc.. and then pull him up via CBI. Wala! You know have his Drivers license as well! STOP-N-SHOP METHOD: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ One method that still amazes me to see work is the Stop-N-Shop method. I origionally concieved this about 6 months ago, and have been able to do it to the same stores, over and over again. What you do is get some local loser (He's got the dangerous part) and you go wait at some payphone. Then he goes to somewhere like the Good Guys, or Curcuit City, or whatever and looks around until he finds something like a portable CD player or Pocket TV, and the he asks to call home (the payphone). You answer and pretend to be his dad, and ask if you can just give your card number over the phone so your son can get it right now. Most of the time they will allow you to do this, but if they don't, you've commited no crime, and they have no proof it was you at the payphone (therefor, saf the loser something like "We'll pick up 6 things for me first, and then 3 things for you after that." If he doesn't agree, tell him you will go else- where for help and he will most likely comply... And anyways, losers grow on trees (or near Commie game sections of Computer stores). This method rates a 8 on danger scale (for loser, 2 for you), and a 9 on the profit scale (It's called 'Instant Gratification'). -------------------- INTRODUCTION As we evolved as a society, we expanded out horizons and types of payments. From a simple barter system, to one based on precious metals and gems, to one based on currency, and finally to one of credit. A rather strange evolution, trading something of true value for something of appied value, but a good system just the same. Now lets talk a little more about the evolution of this wonderful thing called credit. Way back in the middle ages stores offered credit to the duke and monarchy of the area. Even further back than that in ancient Greece there is actually some type of references towards credit... Kinda wild if you think about it. But then, America and it's eternal businessmen took this one step futher, and thus Visa and Mastercard were born. Not born of nessecity, moreover lack of it, it was born of desire. Soon more thought to capitalize on the success of the larger, and Discover, American Express, Diners Club, Carte Blanch, etc... were created. So where is all this leading? Who knows, but hopefully by understanding just a little about how it came about, we can guess as to where it will go. Now one more time I'm back, bringing to you what I feel is a new approach to and question as old as the hills, but in most cases much more valuable: How can a make this work for ME? As one great author said, In order to win at a game you must know the rules, but knowing them doesn't mean you must play by them, but more appropriately manipulate them to best suit you. MISC INFO Well, this will be the final chapter in the infamous Carding My Way Trilogy of Text files... I've really enjoyed writing these damn things, and listening to all the comments that people made (except the bads ones, those people can just burn in hell ahahaah), and I've learned quite a bit. Although I did get busted, and am currently wanted in like 3 or more states by this time, that doesn't mean you'll get caught. Just learn from other peoples mistakes (specifically mine!), and remember, the years before you're 18 can be some of the best and most profitable in your life. The reason I kind of target this towards minors is the fact that is this wonderful counry we live in, you will get little more then a slap on the wrist, and maybe a stern warning, whereas in other countries, you could expect anything short of your hands being severed at the wrists. So why not exploit this wonderful, God-given temporary immunity. Think of all the sorry losers who don't figure this out until they turn 20 or 22 or some shit age. As far as what computer system I recommend (although I don't realize why sooo many people act like this is such an -IMPORTANT- part of carding) is the IBM. I personally use an AWESOME notebook 386, and believe me, this little shit hacks better than anything else I've owned (I wonder if I could modify an AppleCat to work with it ... hmm ...). The IBM is just a nice, powerful machine with alot of support as far as fraud goes, so now, just buy a computer shopper, call up some stupid-shit company and say "I'll take 10 of you're IBM 386-20's please... Well, on second thought, make that 12." One kind of interesting sidenote on this file is that I would personnally like to thank Greyhound, since a good 3/4 th's of this was written while in transit from one fraud site to the next. You really shouldn't put down this type of travel, because the fact that you don't get ID'd ANYWHERE along the way... So if you, John P. Hreaker (of course, that's your God-given name) would like to travel incognito, so be it. Here's a little something I would like to say about the re-insurgance on Text files with those 'great' disclaimers on them.. Bravo for you, you've really covered your ass. Here's what I think of them, in the form of my disclaimer: ALL INFORMATION CONTAINED WITHIN THIS FILE IS ONLY FOR FRAUDULENT USE. ANY USE OF THIS INFORMATION IN ANY WAY THAT DOES NOT BENEFIT YOU BY THE WILLFUL DESTRUCTION AND MANIPULATION OF ANOTHERS CREDIT IS STRICKLY PROHIBITED. THE AUTHOR OF THIS FILE TAKES NO RESPONSIBILITY, APPLIED OR REAL, FOR ANY LEGAL USES THAT MIGHT BE SOMEHOW FOUND FROM THIS FILE. Wow, I guess that just about covers how I feel on that subject. Just had to cover my ass, you know?! Now here's just one more thing I have to say, about users and the general way in which the H/P community has gone downhill. I never used to see people cut down for asking questions before. I never saw files written by people who knew absolutely nothing about what they were writing (well, at least most weren't). And I saw an open and free information swapping forum. I think that all of us should strive to become more open and honest with ourselves, and others. And only by helping others can we achieve a state of higher being... [boy, I sure feel wholesome]... TYMNET USES AND ABUSES Tymnet is definantly a benifit to Frauders (Because that's what we are) all across the country. When you don't have any codes, simply call the 800 or you local port, sit on QSD (208057040540) for an hour or so, and you'll find that you can not only get codes, but CBI's, TRW's, Dun & Bradstreets, Unix systems, the list goes on and on... So next time you are lacking in the code department, just give your friends at Tymnet a ring. And if you don't have an account? Well, that's your problem, if you can't even get a lame Tymnet account, then I really don't think you deserve to be on the system (like it's really any big honor...). A system to get on, that is definantly more H/P oriented is Lutzfer, but I won't list the number, if you deserve to be on it, it's not to hard to get. There are some TRW business-pullers (just like the D&B) on Tymnet, which can be a useful addition to anyone who already has a full-fledged CBI or TRW. This can be used to your advantage by pulling the company the person works for (so you know a little of the comps background for bullshitting), and then use the SBAR command, enter his stats as they appeared on your first pullup, and wala! You get a real nice, easy to understand explanation of all of his credit. No numbers mind you, but that's why you do the primary pull with the other account. Another benifit of this is when you pull a business, most of the time it lists key employee's, like the chairman of the board, the board members, etc... Well, all of these executives are no doubt high paid, and following that logic, probably have VERY juicy virgin cards just waiting to be raped for all they are worth! hahaa, and they said that rapeing and pillageing died with the barbarians. There should be a group called the FRAUD BARBARIANS... hmmm... The main thing about Tymnet is that it is almost never a primary tool, but moreover a secondary tool, which can lead to and strenthen your main one. TRANS UNION CREDIT SERVICES I have had NO experience with these guys, although I believe as of this writing they are the biggest... I would be interested in finding out all I could about this system, and it's inherant weaknesses. If anyone has any info on this system, please leave it to me in mail on any of the boards listed at the end of this file. EQUIFAX CREDIT SERVICES (FORMERLY CBI) Ok, as of late, I've seen a lot of files about CBI that don't tell SHIT about it, and the people who wrote the files, are obviosly stupid as a piece of shit and want to SEEM cool. Well, Although this is a Carding file, and although I did go into CBI in some detail in my 2nd part, I'll put all the bullshit aside and give you an IN-DEPTH overview, inview, sideview and all of views of CBI, and it's abuses. I'm not going to mess around and explain to you how to logon to the system, the other files don't fuck that up (and that is a miracle!). Ok, first of all, lets define, I mean REALLY define the CBI account breakdown. ###LL#####-AA,IN,T,,3. Now THAT is the format of a worthwhile CBI account! The first group of three digits (ranging from 0-9) represent the location in the US where the firm is located. Like 172 is Norther California, 180 Is around the Middle, etc... The LL is a set of two letters that tell you what type of a firm this account is for. Here's a list of what I have for sure... AN - Car Dealerships BB - Bank-Related Accounts CG - Clothing Stores DC - Department Stores FA - Auto Manufaturing Loans FC - Federal Credit Unions FF - Financial Services -Loans FZ - Student Loans HF - Furniture Stores JA - Life Insurance MH - Hospitals OC - Gas Cards/Companies ON - Non-Revolving CC's RE - Real Estate Companies RA - Apartment Complex's UE - Utilities (Like PG&E) UT - Phone Services (Like MCI) YC - Collection Agencies ZB - Credit Bureaus And that is just a SMALL amount of all the 2 char ID's out there, but those are definant. The last group of numbers are 2-5 in length, and represent the branch of the company, or the company's main identifier. Then we get to the -AA, which mean Alpha-Numeric... Now it doesn't take a genius to figure out that it IS NOT Letter/Number, but and be EITHER letter or Number, both in the set. Now also, so you don't sound like a fucking retard, this IS the password to the account. Everything before this is worthless and can be gained from any pullup, the PW and everything after that is the important part. Now if you have just the password, that's ok, but it's a shitty account. Whenever you will pull up an account, it will look like this (this account buffer taken from a textfile on CBI that is only useful for learning how to logon, but NOTHING ELSE!)... *SMITH,ALAN,S SINCE 04/00/75 FAD 10/21/89 FN-700 157,MAPLE,ST,YUTZVILLE,NY,10011,TAPE RPTD 10/89 68,PENN,ST,NOWHERE,IA,50055 SEX-M,MAR-M,DEPS- 2,AGE-38,SSS-012-34-5678 01 ES-WALMART CORP 02 EF-MCDONALDS RESTAURANTS *SUM-01/85-01/91,PR/OI-NO,FB-NO, ACCTS:11,HC$6-1600, 3-ONES. *INQS-450DC81 02/24/89,178BB20089 02/06/89. * BUS/ID CODE RPTD OPND H/C TRMS BAL P/D RT 30/60/90+MR DLA/ACCOUNT NO 03 S*178BB34860 11/90 05/85 500 171 521 139 R5 01 01 01 66 1234567890123456 PREV HI RATES: R4 10/90, R3 09/90, R2 08/90 CLOSED ACCOUNT AMOUNT IN H/C COLUMN IS CREDIT LIMIT Enought of this SHIT SHIT SHIT account, now lets look at what this would look like if it had been pulled up with a REAL account... *SMITH,ALAN,S SINCE 04/00/75 FAD 10/21/89 FN-700 157,MAPLE,ST,YUTZVILLE,NY,10011,TAPE RPTD 10/89 68,PENN,ST,NOWHERE,IA,50055 SEX-M,MAR-M,DEPS- 2,AGE-38,SSS-012-34-5678 01 ES-WALMART CORP 02 EF-MCDONALDS RESTAURANTS *SUM-01/85-01/91,PR/OI-NO,FB-NO, ACCTS:11,HC$6-1600, 3-ONES. *INQS-SEACOASTEQ 181FM567 07/09/91 COMM CRED 181FF1498 05/17/90 * FIRM/ID CODE RPTD OPND H/C TRM BAL P/D CS MR ECOA ACCOUNT NUMBER SOUTHMARK *143FM28 07/91 03/87 91K 718 88K I1 31 J 1338367880 BOFA ALPHA*180BB26454 06/91 11/88 300 10 247 R1 22 I 302400942008 Ok, so I didn't even waste my time to make the bottom accounts the same, but you get the idea... About the only thing that is the same between these pullups is the start of it.... So the initals are useless huh? Only for losers. The rest is the same, except for the addition of ECOA, which simply shows what type of account it is (like on the shit-type method). BUT.. BUT.. You see the bank name... Wow, kinda makes those guess-the-bank-by-the-first-4-digits pretty useless. So don't cut yourself short in a trade of accounts, make sure you get FULL information on the account. Some accounts have only fixed initials, but some have floating, so what this means is that if you have one that does not have the initials, there always is the chance that you can guess them. Ok, IN is the area where you enter the operators initials... Usually you can make this up, since rarely does it check for authorized users only..., the T is one of the more crucial parts, it refers to the type of pull-up you want... P - Primary Q - Inquery E - Employ I - Identify P - Shows full stats including account Numbers Q - Shows a more detailed list of previous INQS (if possible) E - Shows basic info for Employer verification. Will include Date of birth if 'P' does not. I - Used to identify the individual. Doesn't generate an INQS Most of the time you will use P, but play around with the other ones to get an idea of what they do. Finally there is the ,,3. This simply tells CBI not to cut off any of the numbers, unless it's already been chopped by the bank (many banks now remove the last 4 digits from CBI accounts). Well, hopefully this shed a LITTLE bit of light on the gross misrepresentation that CBI has gotten. As far as the actual pulling up of the file, just read on of the others, even they don't mess that up either. Ok, now that all of that has been basically cleared up, I can continue on, with a clear heart & mind.... One thing which was true about CBI, but is no longer true, is that there are alot of 300 baud ports. In actuality, there are very few, if any (I know of -no- 300-only ports). 1200 baud is currently the standard, but many of the ports are switching over to 2400. Moving right along... Another change that will be occuring within CBI is the closeure of all of their regional offices. CBI is going to consolidate to one fixed location in Atlanta, Georgia. The reason they are doing this is, and I quote, "To lover overhead costs, and also to increase security." So don't be too overly suprised if CBI seems to be learning a few new tricks. The plan is to be completed within 2-3 years, with most of the outlying sites already closed. One nice note to this... If you live in Atlanta, look in the want adds, CBI's hiring Data Entry personnel... Hmmmm.... Here's some of the companies that I have already identified... For your convienience... AN - 171an700 Pittsburg Ford 171an809 Champion 171an866 Valsthrough 171an1294 BRWD Dodge 171an1336 Antioch 172an22 Biddulph Chevrolet 181an1102 West Coast Volvo 181an1706 CB Hyundai 402an1918 Bird Road Mazda 402an2791 Lexus 403an1248 Maroone Chevrolet 403an1289 Toyota HWD 444an4003 Precious Cars 728an787 Courtesy Cars 808an195 Florin Rd Nissan 808an334 Niello 826an409 Crest Pontiac 882an87 Scott Imperial BB - 146bb513 Mtn Sts Bankcard 146bb1156 RMBC Visa Gold 146bb3228 HRSI N A 146bb11944 UBARAPAHOE 148bb917 Bank 1 Visa 155bb3747 Dicover Card 162bb1353 BoA Visa 162bb5388 Wells Fargo MC 162bb10365 Wells Fargo Visa 162bb11630 BoA TPL (Auto Loan) 162bb12121 BoA MC 162bb13102 Bank of the West (Loan) 162bb13157 1st Interstate -CA 162bb13521 First Interstate -CA 162bb14058 Wells Fargo 162bb16270 BoA MC Gold 162bb19097 Security Pacific 163bb2848 HIBERNIA Bank 163bb15083 Pacific Western 163bb17492 HBNA MC 163bb19463 FI Advance 163bb19891 First Deposit 171bb1238 Citibank FSB 178bb167 Maa Company MC 178bb2809 Mass Co. 180bb19701 Bank of California 180bb23812 BoA 180bb26454 BoA Alpha Account 180bb26908 1st Interstate -CA 180bb27195 Security Pacific 402bb1208 SE Bank NA 403bb1876 Barnett Bank 404bb182 1st Card Visa 404bb2568 Monogram Georgia 405bb280 Marine MID 426bb1895 MH Visa 444bb3469 Chemical of NJ 605bb4043 Spring National 613bb1199 Integrated 674bb1065 Bank 1 728bb5506 Barnett Bank 728bb10304 NCNB National Bank 850bb1555 CFB Visa 882bb112 Barnett International 898bb49 1st Interstate -MT 905bb587 Chase USA 906bb40 CitiBank MC 906bb115 CitiBank 906bb289 CitiBank PRVS 906bb1659 CitiBank 906bb1808 CitiBank MC Gold 906bb5130 Amex Optima CG - 146cg11 Fashion BR 728cg54 Colony Shop 772cg167 Adothrdims 832cg159 Added Dimensions 905cg358 Lane Bryant 906cg68 Lerners DC - 146dc39 May D&F 161dc146 Mervyns 162dc392 Emporium 162dc400 Macys 180dc93 Bullocks 180dc127 May Company 180dc143 Robinson's 180dc184 Broadway 180dc440 Robinson's 180dc929 Bullocks 402dc114 J Bryon's 404dc21 Bloomingdales 444dc49 Macys 496dc12 Wanamakers 701dc529 Nordstroms 701dc750 The Bon 728dc31 Burdines 728dc668 Jordan Mars 774dc32930 Maison Blare 805dc61 Belk Center 808dc308 Weinstocks 906dc29 Sears 906dc52 Maas Brothers 906dc86 Maison Blane 906dc136 Wards 906dc151 Lord & Tay 906dc185 JC Penneys 906dc193 JC Penneys FA - 161fa28 Ford Motorcomp. 168fa13 Volkswagon Lease 180fa587 Nissan 402fa53 Ford Motorcomp. 402fa1069 GMAC 403fa1043 World OMNI 826fa162 Lincoln/Mercury 906fa26 Crysler 906fa34 GMAC 906fa67 Toyota MTR FC - 161fc1552 Tech Visa 162fc2062 Patelco CU 162fc2112 Safe America 162fc2401 Patelco CU Visa 163fc446 Tech FCU 180fc403 Whittaker CU 402fc69 FPL CU 634fc91 Fort Lee CU 753fc364 UNIWYD EFCU 906fc172 United Airlines CU FF - 163ff4908 Crysler 1st 163ff5905 AFS REV 171ff617 Crysler 1st 181ff1498 Comm Credit 404ff932 GECAP-LVTZ 458ff10 Whirlpool FZ - 162fz938 First Deposit 180fz910 Student Loan 491fz18008 SLMA-LSCY 608fz2147 TG Loan Services That sould give you a few to fiddle with, and one of the most important, BB is included... Of course! I will be releasing shortly an file with just the CBI listings, the above includes, plus alot more, all the way from AA to ZZ... So no one get the wise idea to use these in your own (don't be a loser). If you find any of these that aren't correct (although I doubt there are any mistakes) please leave me some mail somewhere, so I can fix it right up. You might ask the reason why I chose to include these, or am planning and upcoming release for just these... Well, the answer is, we con't always get the complete account, so with these, it's the second best thing! All those but the most obsure companies will be on the list, so as to make your fraudulant life much, much more easier... Ok, as far as finding people to abuse... Well, Rich people in your area is one good way, akthough I personnally prefer the hit-and-miss method of just dtec'ing the person (explained in the social security portion of this file). WESTERN UNION / MONEYGRAM Western Union and MoneyGram are both card-to-cash organizations, where with someones card, and properly altered billing infomation, one can receive large abouts of money. There are certain limitations though, Western Union accepts Visa/MC, and does call back, and will blacklist the recievers name after 3 or 4 abuses. MoneyGram, on the other hand, is run by American Express (your friend and mine), and accepts card sends ONLY on the AmEx Optima card. Just a little blast from the past, but I can remember when ever card was abused about the same... Now, It seems AmEx realized just what security means. Anyways, all you have to do is find someone 50 or more miles away (or just drive that far away), the further the farther. Call from your location, have them call back a payphone, and send the money to your friend in the other city. You are given the choice of using a test question if the person doesn't have ID... Don't EVER use a test question on a carding, it will never go through, they do way to much checking on it, and you will have just wasted a card. I know lots of people who recieve big money on their real ID's and have had no problems... Hell, I myself had, And one note on blacklisting, they only blacklist for around 2 to 3 months, and it seems to be regional, so if you can drive to another state, you should have no problem. Different days of the week change the security of the company (at least it does for MoneyGram, and I believe WU is the same). Weekends the rate at which they REALLY check into things is $200 up, whereas on MON-THU it's more along the lines of $500 up. Friday is the worst, at around $100 up. These are not exact, and do fluxuate from week to week, depending on how many frauds they have had the past month... Easy enough, but once again AmEx shows a little resourcefulness. Right now I would like to get a hold of the IBM program that all the check cashing places use. With this we could figure out EXACTLY how there system works, and there is NEVER a callback with the program. If anyone works for a place that uses this software, or knows someone who has morals which are questionable, please contact me. I will make it very worthwhile for you to do so... There are computer systems for both of these, but I have been into neither of them (although I sure as hell would like to)... I'm thinking of working for a check cashing place to a week or so, just long enough to get the info I need, then WHAM... I'll rape them to! FRAUD BARBARIANS - HOO! The only problem with me doing it is if they do any real extensive background checks they will realize I'm not who I say I am (it's not like I'm going to waste a real good identity on a shit place like that). SOCIAL SECURITY NUMBERS Social Security numbers are rapidly becoming the country's uniform ID, now on almost any aplication you see the little space (11 spaces, to be exact), and almost everyone mindlessly puts this down. Now the beauty of this is the fact that it makes it real easy to pick people outside your respective areas. Now what is the benifit of pulling someone by their social, instead of their address? you ask... Well, unless you are traveling to new cities every week or two (like me), you are going to identify what city you are located in by your pullups, Sooo, by just entering semi-random socials, you hit ALL OVER this wonderful country of ours, and make it very hard for them to get a positive idea of where you are going to pull from next. Included is a list of all the social security states, and the numbers they were on as of 1988. Remember, the first 3 digits represent the state it was ISSUED in, the middle two represent the year it was ISSUED in (not to be confused with the persons actual age, although you usually can hit within your target age within a 10 yr span). The last set of four are just random numbers, so just guess guess guess your little heart out. (This wonderful little list is an excerpt from the book: The Outlaw Report) FIRST GROUP RANGE ISSUEING STATE LAST GROUP ISSUED ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 001-003 New Hampshire 001-68 004-007 Maine 007-80 008-009 Vermont 009-64 010-034 Massachusetts 013-64 035-039 Rhode Island 037-52 040-049 Connecticut 047-76 050-134 New York 129-66 135-158 New Jersey 157-76 159-211 Pennsylvania 204-62 212-220 Maryland 219-04 221-222 Delaware 221-68 223-231 Virginia 226-33 232 North Carolina 232-27 232-236 West Virginia 236-25 237-246 North Carolina 237-45 247-251 South Carolina 247-59 252-260 Georgia 260-47 261-267 Florida 267-99 268-302 Ohio 281-82 303-317 Indiana 308-92 318-361 Illinois 342-72 362-386 Michigan 373-94 387-399 Wisconsin 394-92 400-407 Kentucky 405-23 408-415 Tennessee 411-45 416-424 Alabama 423-17 425-428 Mississippi 425-51 429-432 Arkansas 429-57 433-439 Louisiana 438-53 440-448 Oklahoma 440-84 449-467 Texas 467-67 468-477 Minnesota 477-02 478-485 Iowa 479-06 486-500 Missouri 499-88 501-502 North Dakota 502-02 503-504 South Dakota 503-04 505-508 Nebraska 508-11 509-515 Kansas 510-88 516-517 Montana 517-04 518-519 Idaho 518-11 520 Wyoming 520-04 521-524 Colorado 524-43 525 New Mexico 525-53 526-527 Arizona 527-99 528-529 Utah 529-59 530 Nevada 530-08 531-539 Washington 535-94 540-544 Oregon 542-11 545-573 California 561-81 574 Alaska (Vietnam Vets) 574-76 575-576 Hawaii 576-27 577-579 Dist Of Columbia 577-11 580 Puerto Rico (V. Vets) 583-97 580 Vigin Islands 580-19 581-584 Puerto Rico 583-97 585 New Mexico 585-51 586 Guam (Vietnam Vets) 586-78 586 American Samoa 588-78 586 N. Mariana Islands 586-78 586 Philippines 586-78 587 Mississippi 587-49 588 Mississippi NOT USED YET 589-595 Florida 589-30 596-599 Puerto Rico NOT USED YET 600-601 Arizona 601-14 602-626 Califonia STARTED IN '90 627-699 NOT ASSIGNED NOT USED YET 700-728 RailRoad Retirement NOT USED YET 729-999 NOT ASSIGNED NOT USED YET There you go, that should make your life just a little bit easier... Ok, now for a brief description of how the middle 2 digits move. Ok, when a number is first put into use, like 602 (CA) it starts on 01, then goes to 03, 05, 07, 09, then changes to 10, and goes up all even number until 98, where it starts over at 02, 04, 06, 08, then 11 on up all odd. 00 is never used. So if it's on like 535-94, and you want to find someone around 30 years old, what you do is take 30, subtract around 5, multiply by 2, and subtract from the middle two. Simple, huh? hehe, here's the equation form: OLDMID - ( ( AGE - 5 ) x 2) = NEWMID And I always thought algebra was stupid worthless boring shit... Well, I guess it still is, but at least here it's useful. The reason you subtract 5 is because most people don't get social's until they start school, which is usually around 5 years old. One negative to the abuse of SSN's is the fact of the publics growing awareness of just how important a Social is. The more they know, the less they are willing to let us manipulate them. The only thing that we have in our favor is the lame-ass government will help to downplay the situation, so they won't appear to be the chumps they are. Because, my dear friends, without their GRAND insight, all of this would never have been possible. RECOMMENDED READING Well, I have to plug some of the other files that I have written, so here's where I'll do that. Also, listed are some books I would recommend to anyone from beginner Fraud-Loser to Supreme Fraud-GOD... Anyone can benifit from it... Hell, as the government so wisely has said... "READING IS FUNDIMENTAL". One side note on that quote and the governments stupidity... It's target was Americas illiterate... Well, what I want to know is how many fucking il- literates know what fundimental means? Please, all illiterates give me your views (think about it). TEXT FILES-- CARDING, MY WAY -part 1 : Covers all the basics of Credit Card Fraud CARDING, MY WAY -part 2 : Covers most of the advanced tricks to carding more successfully. Gives a working knowledge of CBI (now EquiFax) Services usage. BREAKING & ENTERING 1-3 : My file on Breaking into buildings... More along the criminal scene, but hell, aren't most of the people reading this wanna-be criminals anyways? Read this file and learn from my mistakes. PHISICAL BOOKS-- NEW ID IN AMERICA : Not by me, and not a GPhile, but an AWESOME book sold by Palidan Press on establishing a new identity. DEFINANTLY worth adding to any true Anarchist/Criminals collection. THE OUTLAW REPORTS : By Lee Lapin, a book that is just filled with useful info on everything from IDs to AutoTheft. THE SPYGAME : Formerly Ninja 1990, this is the updated sequel to How to get anything on anybody, winning thru super-technology. It is definantly worth $30... One thing that I would ask is that if you do decide to get these book, even though it goes against everything I know, I ask you to please PAY for them, and don't give the companies that sell these any shit... Look at it this way, if they go under because we all card from them, then we'll be fucked because I doubt Waldenbooks is ever going to carry any of these! Some other files of mine to look for are: Unconventional Warfare, Devices & Techniques (taken directly from the US Army Manuals, 6 parts totalling 200k!); Bic Balistics; Where to get Weopons; The Rock Box; and 800's 4 me! Also be on the lookout for more files coming up, including such wonderful topics such as Auto Theft and Creating False Identities... Which, like all of my files, were completely test by me. CONCLUSION I hope you found the info in this file useful. Its all been tried and tested by yours truely and his helpful band of thugs. Hopefully you won't end up carding yourself across America, working on changing your identity, but if you do, take the advice of someone who's there; When you leave your past, you have to leave both the good and the bad. So if this means you don't call mommie-poo and daddie-poo for a couple of years, so be it. It's the price you decided you were willing to pay in order to play. And if you decide that you are sly enough to still keep in contact with them and be free... More power to you, and I'll come visit you in jail, unless I'm sharing the cell with you. Okok, enough with the negative stuff. Now it's time for me to greet the only people who have been there the whole time for me. On the top of the list is The White Rider, who without his help, I wouldn't be typing this right now - You're the best dude! Maximum Overdrive, although you really lagged on helping me, you're still a pretty cool guy. The Sparrow, stop using drugs loser! You used to be a killer hacker! And here's a note for all you up and comming frauders/carders /criminals... Share any and all information you get... Being a jew with information doesn't help anyone, only the company you're abusing. If Gord the Rogue is still out there, GET IN TOUCH WITH ME! That also goes for Razor Ratte (Shit man, you moved from 415 never to be heard from again). Captain Zap, what's up man? Get in touch with me too! Phelix the Hack... You dissappeared like almost everone else! Call me! And now for some normal greetings go out to... Strato Viper, Traxster, LE Pirate, Grandmaster Ratte, Dr Ripco, Death Mage, Mr. Drunkfux, Shatter, Crypt Roamer, Quinn, Single Sideband (are you even still around?) and anyone else I forgot that was worth mentioning. Finally, if you would like to contact me, for questions, comments about this file, suggestions for upcoming files, etc... feel free to leave me mail on any of the boards at the end of this file. If I'm not in jail or dead I'll reply to you (hehe). Anarchy today, for a better tommorow! =========================================================================== Ripco [THEE name in H/P BBS's since the mid-80's] 3-96 312-528-5020 Demon Roach [PW: THRASH A Total Classic! cDc BoardT ] 3-24 806-794-4362 The Works [Tons of Files cDc Board Give it a call ] 3-24 617-861-8976 Toxic Waltz [NUP: KILL FOR MORE BEER Good Board! ] 3-24 206-549-4355 ===========================================================================